Overhangs will keep your building from looking like an industrial warehouse. You can always add doors, however you only get one opportunity to do overhangs – at time of construction. Today he answers questions about adding soffits or overhangs to a structure, options for framing a building with lap siding, and the feasibility of lifting a building to add to the eave height.ĭEAR POLE BARN GURU: Should I have a soffit on my pole barn? CLIFF in SOUTHSIDEĭEAR CLIFF: Personally if my budget was so tight I could only afford doors or enclosed overhangs, I would do overhangs and leave door openings to install later when funds became available. The Guru has had so many questions sent over email and social media, we thought we’d play catch-up for a few days. Building dimensions, applied wind loads and soil bearing capacity will all impact depth of holes. They need to be deep enough to go below frost line (not an issue in California) as well as to resist overturning and uplift. Ĭolumn depth will be determined by engineer who is designing your plans. ![]() In any case, raised heel trusses should be utilized to allow for full depth of insulation from wall-to-wall. Between bottom chords of pairs of trusses, joist hang 2×6 #2 24 inches on center. Use five (5) psf (pounds per square foot) for a steel ceiling and 10 psf if sheetrocked. Trusses should be engineered to carry a ceiling (bottom chord dead load – BCDL). ![]() Use a true two-ply truss, aligned with every sidewall column ( ) and notched in. In most instances, you are better served with sidewall columns spaced every 12 feet. Any comments on this, and how deep do my posts have to go into the ground? LARREN in DAVIS CREEKĭEAR LARREN: Personally, I would throw away your proposed design solution. Usually purlins closest to endwalls have to be much closer together to adequately support those loads.ĭEAR POLE BARN GURU: I want to space my poles 8′ apart and use to 2×12, one inside and one outside at the top to place standard trusses on the top so i can add an insulated ceiling in it. While you are at it – have your building’s engineer recheck those shed rafters and purlins closest to main endwall to confirm they are adequate for snow drift loads. You need to lower end rafters to allow purlins to go over top of end rafters without any notching. MIKE in RAVENSDALEĭEAR MIKE: Absolutely do not cut or notch into your end rafter. One in center span and one at top of roof. Notch would be 1 ½” deep on an 11 ¾” lvl. Can a 1 ½” x3 ½”(2×4) notch for outrigger for eave support and run end rafter up like others in the center. The purlins were designed to run over end rafter bit that makes eve low. For extended reading: ĭEAR POLE BARN GURU: I got a pole barn I’m putting up. In any case, it is not recommended to use closed cell spray foam applied to any WRB. As standing seam steel does not provide shear resistance, it must be installed over solid decking – and you can spray foam directly to this decking underside. This does result in having to mechanically control humidity as your building will now “dry” to inside. GREG in CARROLLĭEAR GREG: In your climate zone I would typically not recommend using spray foam other than as two inch thickness applied directly to steel roofing and/or siding in order to control condensation. I’ve researched several, like zip system, Tyvek, and others. I know that a reflective barrier is useless without an air gap behind it. Do you have a recommendation as to what water resistant barrier (WRB) to use with closed cell spray foam? Planning on using a standing seam metal roof and wainscot siding at this time. ![]() ![]() This week the Pole Barn Guru answers reader questions about weather resistant barriers, a caution to not attempt to notch LVL rafters, and a recommended design solution for a new build.ĭEAR POLE BARN GURU: We are in process of designing our barndominium with hoping to start building next spring.
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